Belozersk

Belozersk
is a region centre in the Vologda area. It is one of the most ancient Russian towns (first mention in 862). The population is about 12 thousand people. In 1238-1370 Belozersk was the capital of Belozersk state.
(1238-1370).

To reach Belozersk it is the most convenient:

From St.-Petersburg from Moscovsky station by train going to Vologda, Archangelsk, Ekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk or Vorkuta up to station Cherepovets (2-5 departures per day, approximately 9 hours journey). It is convenient to use the trains leaving St.-Petersburg in the evening. In Cherepovets it is necessary to pass to the bus terminal (located near the station) and take a bus going to Belozersk (4 and more departures per day; 2 h 30 min journey).

From Moscow by trains, going to Vologda, Archangelsk or Vorkuta up to station Vologda. In Vologda it is necessary to pass to the bus terminal (near the railway station) and take the bus going to Belozersk (1-3 departures per day, 3 h journey).

In the town there is one hotel, located in the very centre of the town. I recommend to stay in the town 1-2 days, not because there are a lot of sights (you can visit all the places of interest in 3-4 hours), but to be imbued with the spirit aroma of this ancient town with its slow life.

Belozersk is a town of wooden tale.

Belozersk is situated on the coast of the lake of Beloe, which has given its name to the town. The ancient Slavs used to found their cities near lakes. Very many cities with ancient history are situated just near the lakes. Moreover, through the Beloe lake a trade path passed, connecting the northern (Prioneghje, Karelia) and Novgorod's lands with Povolzhie, Central Russia and the towns along the rivers Suhona and Northern Dvina. The centre of the town consists of an ancient fortress and adjoined to it from the east some quarters, lying along the Sovetsky prospekt - the centre of "business and trade activity". To tell the truth, the ancient fortress was not preserved, there is only a mound and a moat. In the town there are in main wooden pre-war and even pre-revolution buildings. A stone architecture is represented in main by the churches, trade buildings, mansions in the centre of the town and several ordinary buildings in the outskirts. The town is separated from the lake by a channel going along all the coast, which gives a specific view to the part of the town, adjoined to it. It is necessary to mark the high safety of the monuments and the old northern peasants' houses in Belozersk. The environs of the town represent the plane lowland, covered by woods and swamps. The climate is continental. In winter the average temperature is about -10 (C (January), in summer -- up to +18 (C. The snow cover lays about 160 days on the average. Precipitations are about 600 mm, from which 2/3 drops out in summer.

I recommend you to visit Belozersk in winter. Russia is in general "a winter country". In the area of Belozersk the snow in some years can lay for five months a year. It is not surprising, therefore, that the people for centuries have adapted to life in such conditions, built the houses in account for severe long winter and, which is even more important, have kept the habits in our time.

Pages of history

Belozersk is one of the most ancient Russian towns. The first mention about it in the annals refers to 862. Under the legend, the town was ruled by prince Sineus, one of the brothers of Rurik, who was the founder of a dinasty of Russian tsars. In that time the town was situated on the northern coast of Beloe lake, but then in the 10th century it was transferred to the southern coast, where it existed till 1352. In 1180 the army of Belozersk participated in the Kulikovskaja battle, when it was practically exterminated. Its leaders, Belozersk princes, perished, too. In 1238 Belozersk became the centre of an independent state (up to this time it was included in Rostovo-Suzdalskoje state, which existed almost 150 years).

In 1352 in the town the terrible epidemic of plaque has burst, and practically all the inhabitants of the town were exterminated. It is necessary to note that the town had an important location on the water way connecting the northern grounds with Povolzhje, and also with the towns located along the Sukhona and the Northern Dvina. For this reason the ancient town has revived for the third time. In 1363-1364 the city "moved" 17 kilometers to the west and occupied its today's place, and the period of a heyday of the town began. It quickly became rich, got the popularity all over Russia and was already part of the Moscow state. But in 1612 Polish-Lithuanian army occupied and ruined the town because of a outdated fortifications. The earthen mound and the wooden walls could not any more resist the artillery and the fire-arms of the enemy. But neighbouring Kirillov, enclosed by a new stone wall, managed to keep its independence. Since then Belozersk has been a quiet provincial town. The civilization bypassed it, keeping the unique spirit of a slow way of life. This to a great extent was promoted also by a change of the geopolitical conditions which has made all the north almost back of beyond of the huge Empire. A destiny as though tried to keep the town in its primary shape. In the 19th and the 20th centuries in Russia the heavy railway construction was conducted transforming small towns and villages in large industrial centres. So through the small Cherepovets located near Belozersk the railway St.-Petersburg-Ural-Siberia has passed, and now it is a large modern city (350,000 inhabitants), and it lost its originality. Nor has Belozersk the place of the battles during Revolution and the Great Patriotic war, nor a "Komsomol construction" or an "industry giant". Today Belozersk isn't a tourist centre because of the absence of the convenient roads and a relative remoteness of the town from the large tourist centres. For example, across the river Sheksna, becoming now the reservoir, there are no bridges. In summer the ferries work, and in winter the road across the ice is made but it has a limited capacity.

In the town there are some shops, a small fish factory, a river port, a printing house, a flax factory and a bakery.

The tourist buses, which are calling sometimes in the Kirillo-Belozersky monastery, cannot cover 43 kilometers and deliver the tourists to Belozersk. Thus, for the people interested in the life in the Russian backyard, this town gives an excellent opportunity to get in the very middle of it and to see it such as it is..

In this photo made in the winter of 1999, "device" for washing linen is represented. Ilia V. Gourevich.

In some parts of the town there are no water pipes, and, certainly, no hot water. In this photo made in the winter of 1999, "device" for washing linen is represented. Along all the town there is a canal, constructed in 1840-ies. The canal is separated from the lake by the low mound. In winter the canal, as well as the lake, freezes. In several places on ice the wooden obstacles are put, between them the ice-holes are made. On the one hand, the obstacles will not let the casual passer-by to fall under ice, on the other hand, the women hang out the linen on them. The technology of washing differs a little from that accepted in the old times. The only thing, that the civilization has brought, is a detergent. Linen is soaked, washed by hands or rubbed against a board and rinsed in the ice-hole.

Sights

In the centre of the town there is a high earthen mound surrounded by a deep moat. The fortifications were constructed in the end of the 15th century, when the town finally passed to the Moscow state, ruled by prince Ivan III. The height of mounds reached 30 meters, and above it there were wooden walls with towers. Taking into account the surrounding moat with water, it is possible to say that the fortress was well protected. Today the moat landslides a little, but all the same add a peculiarity to an urban landscape. The Preobraghensky cathedral, more than a half hidden by the moat, is especially picturesque. From the town only the heads with the crosses are visible. Along the top of the fortifications it is possible to make a circular journey that will allow you to see the whole town. The Preobragensky cathedral is the most beautiful temple of Belozersk. It was constructed in 1668-1670.

Five widely put heads crown the cathedral, which is, however, rather traditional. On the trade square there is one more building, typical to Russian towns - the trade court (1840). Most known of such constructions is the Trade Court in St. Petersburg. Many provincial centres aspired to be similar to the capital, so such constructions appeared in many other towns.

Near the bridge across the moat there is a special monument. The encyclopaedia "The Russian Towns" says that it is devoted to 1112th anniversary of the town. The history of Belozersk was closely connected with the water way, and as a symbol for a monument a boat was chosen. But the date, in honour of which the monument was constructed, is surprising. It is necessary to note that the antiquity of the town is a special pride of the inhabitants. A stone laying near the monument, a large poster decorating the town centre speak about it. This town is almost 300 years older than Moscow! The special interest can represent the Uspenskaja church (1552). This is the most ancient stone structure of the town (at least, survived up to our times). It is known, that it was constructed by the architects from Rostov, the town, which is well-known for the outstanding monuments of architecture. The church looks grand and heavy.

The quay is another interesting place in the town. Along the canal a lot of one-storeyed stone buildings were built, in which earlier were placed a stable, barracks and house of the chief of the canal (constructed in 1846).

In the town centre the whole quarters of the wooden houses were preserved. Probably, it is one of a largest "collections" in Russia. The main enemy of the wooden constructions, the progress, as we already noted, has not touched Belozersk. Most of the buildings are usual houses of the rather poor townspeople. But there are also large houses decorated with carving, which belonged to rich people, as, for example, the private residence of merchant Kalinin.

In the town also there are other interesting objects: the wooden church of Ilja the Prophet (1690-1696), the church of Vsemilostiveishy Spas (1716-1723), the church of Iohan Predtecha (1810) and others.

In winter a lot of buildings in the town are heated with coal. In frosty air the slight smell enveloping all the town is felt. In the city there are not many cars, the life is slow. Indeed, Belozersk is the town of the last century. By visiting this town it is possible to learn Russia considerably more, than from staying in Moscow.